The Fringe of Western Civilization In the Bush of Africa

                                                                                                                          August 1, 2012

The Fringe of Western Civilization In the Bush of Africa

I should start by saying this is just my experience, and i know my closest neighbor does not face this reality.

It's not what I expected, village life, life in the bush of Africa surrounded by a culture and language completely foreign and unknown to me.  Possibly it is the village and location i was placed.  I am over twenty km from the tar mac but then only about five to the boma, or main town, which happens to big a huge transport hub, not just for Zambia but for copper and Tanzania which is the route most exports go.  The fringe of western civilization is where I ended up...in the bush of Africa.  Supposedly hungry season exists, but I can't imagine it...especially while most huts in my area have tin roofs (a sign of a wealthy farmer), some even with solar panels and converters.  The reality of the language is that most people speak better English than I do Bemba...so even though I struggle trying to remember verbs and how to attach one of the seven tenses...my community patiently waits until I finish when they kindly correct means answer usually in some form of broken English. 

Some women paint their nails and wear wigs...everyone belongs to a Christian church of some kind.  There is evidence of traditional culture.  The women wear incitenges (wrappers like a sarong)...though its not a complete shock to see a woman in trousers.  Showing bare leg is still unheard of.  The funerals is where I have noticed the most Zambian culture.  The bamayos (women) in their traditional icitambalas and incitenges... an icitambala or head wrap is worn as a sign of respect to the deceased.  The deep wailing  by the women fills the air with sorrow as they rotate their way in and out the house of the deceased, while the men sit in their separate area near silent.  The wailing from the women reverberates in every inch of your body and soul...even if you have never met the person that died, the grief is unavoidable.  Occasionally a beautifully sorrowful hymn cuts through moments of the wailing.  I don't want this to sound morbid, but I now almost look forward to these moments, as they are as near what I expected from traditional Zambian culture.  I am realizing that I long for that and can't help but to feel somewhat disappointed that it is not what I am finding.  The fact is, western civilization is creepy like a vine you don't know exists.

Don't get me wrong, i love my community and their culture.  They are hard workers....from laughter from the children fills the air as the red African sun sets on the field in which we are harvesting this year’s maize crop...to the ride on the OX cart as we transport the maize from the field, to the ubwali for every meal, water from the well, and letters by candle light...I am still in the village...just not in the fairy tale aspect I expected. 

 

There is a lot of work to be done here too.  My area is cutting the forest at an alarming rate for various reasons, but primarily to produce charcoal mainly to sell to people in the towns where they make a substantial profit.  I understand it.  It is quick money, and what they know how to do. 

 So project one...try to teach sustainable forest harvest, how much they will alter their environment (and there for livelihood as they live off and are so dependent on the land) if they continue to cut, teach alternatives to income generation, and try to find those that really care that will help to regenerate the forest, even though they won't see a paycheck from it.  For anyone that knows me, it’s obvious this will be close to my heart through the next two years.  Not too far behind it would land the sustainable agriculture, food security projects, community schools, the abundant impact of AIDS/HIV, and orphans.  Which each are there own can of worms...for a later date. 

So here I am...I have made it through community entry and the beautiful people of Zambia have welcomed me with open arms and a list of hopeful projects.  The reality is, I already care deeply for my community and I wouldn't change my posting for any other!

Oh, did I mention I have tried caterpillar, whole fish (i mean it all), and.....wait for it.....field mice!  AHHHHHH....mentally couldnt get over it, but it tasted sooo good.  Lol, when in Africa :)

 

Until next time...Peace and Love from Zambia!